Not long ago, Madagascar ranked 23rd in the world for coffee production.
Located off the coast of Africa, this island nation consumes a majority of the coffee that is produced locally, and so exports are naturally a very small part of the Malagasy coffee industry.
Their coffee history is a story of ups and downs that ultimately cost them the position of the world’s eighth largest coffee producer.
Keep reading to know more about Madagascar’s coffee landscape.
History
It was the neighbouring island of Réunion (then called Bourbon) that introduced coffee to Madagascar. Creole planters were said to have carried the plant to the island in the 19th century.
By the end of the 19th century, French colonialists intervened and expedited the commercialisation of coffee, which became an important export crop for the country.
However, the 1940s brought conflict to the land that affected their production. Coffee leaf rust destroyed the yield of Arabica plants, which compelled them to turn to the more resilient Robusta variety.
After their independence in the 1960s, Madagascar’s trade relationship with France helped strengthen their coffee sector. By the 1980s, they were one of the top 10 producers of coffee in the world, with over half of their export income brought in by coffee.
The 1990s changed everything for the country’s coffee industry. The crash of global coffee prices, poor infrastructure, and ageing trees led to a sharp decline in local coffee cultivation. Smallholders switched their efforts to planting crops that were economically stable, like rice and cloves.
This shift was also bolstered by government initiatives to grow more food crops. From producing 1.1 million 60kg bags at a point in time, Madagascar’s coffee production is now limited to around 300,000 bags.
Today, the country is striving to revive their coffee industry with the help of the Madagascar Coffee Company and FOFIFA (a research centre focused on rural development).
Trends
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Challenging perceptions of Robusta.
Robusta coffee has developed a reputation for being useful as part of an espresso blend or known for its more robust profile. Madagascar’s production of Robusta compels coffee professionals to rethink the potential of this variety and consider what well-produced Robusta can achieve from a sensory perspective.
Malagasy Robusta is grown at low to mid altitudes and has a significant body with none of the peppery, rubber-like notes common in Robusta from other regions, which makes it an attractive option for coffee lovers. -
Improving smallholder production.
One of the biggest bottlenecks in Madagascar’s coffee economy was the lack of investment and specialised guidance for coffee growers.
That’s changing in recent times with greater interest in the sector and steps being taken to establish better post-harvest methods. There’s significant opportunity for cooperatives and businesses to focus on traceability and consistency. -
A remarkably diverse coffee portfolio.
Research shows that Madagascar is home to more than 60 endemic species of the coffee plant, many of which are adapted to specific growing conditions and regions. For example, the Baracoffea species in western Madagascar is suited to sandy soils and hot, dry environments, which is different from the usual coffee-growing environment.
This biodiversity lends the country the chance to bounce back, as many of the wild coffee species can withstand disease and adapt to climate change.
Characteristics
Madagascar’s coffee is as diverse as its growing environment.
You have bourbon and typica varieties of Arabica grown in the highlands in cooler temperatures, and Robusta grown in the eastern lowlands during a humid, tropical climate.
So, there’s no one flavour profile indicative of what the country brings to the coffee table. Each region produces distinct notes and aromas.
Arabica coffee displays notes of red fruit, chocolate, and honey. They have a floral aroma that is balanced by a citrus-like acidity.
Apart from the region, the altitude and processing also influence Malagasy coffees. Plants grown in the highlands typically have a more prominent acidity and complexity.
Prefer Robusta coffee to Arabica? Madagascar’s Robusta coffee is a significant step up from the commercial Robusta you’d usually find elsewhere. It has a smooth body without any of the harsh bitterness. In the cup, earthy and dark chocolate tasting notes are common. Some other well-produced Malagasy Robustas also have a nutty, cocoa profile with low acidity.